After filling any gaps, the final stage of the board was flocking. A base layer of superfine foam in various shades of green was sifted over most of the board. A soil/tile grout mix sprinkled on for the paths, with some additional brown and black cement pigment powder to enhance the colour.
Some additional small pieces of clump foliage were sprinkled around and the whole table was sprayed with isopropyl alcohol and then watered down PVA and matt varnish from a plant mister. I've had problems with it gumming up before but this time I put the mixture through a blender which removed all those little stringy blobs you can get in PVA and it sprayed very well.
Green dyed tea-leaves were added in patches, as was green dyed sawdust, to add to the variety of textures and colours.
The soil/grout mixture was topped up in various places to ensure it blended into the flock.
Soil/grout was also sprinkled along the cliff-side path at the back of the board. General opinion from members of a few FaceBook wargame terrain groups was that the board would be more flexible without the ruins on the plateau, so this area has just been left fairly flat to allow multiple options.
Some areas need a little more grout added to bring the path level up to hide the bottom of the doors.
I'll probably revisit the scenery in order to add some rocky debris along the bottom of the cliff sections. I have a lot of crushed plaster rubble that can be painted in the same leopard spot technique.
The edges of the plateau had the soil/grout mix applied where the ground would have crumbled away.
The brick panel in the cave at the rear was given a gentle brush of fairly thin burnt sienna to make it standn out from the surrounding rocks. The thinned paint gives the brick a suitably red/orange colour but allows the earlier black shading wash to show through, giving some variation to the hue.